Thursday, September 4, 2008

Garry Winogrand - Part 2




Reading John Szarkowski's quote about Garry Winogrand - that his ambition was "through photography to know life" - was a felicitous find as I just uncovered a disc of images that had been offered to me years ago. They were a large group of early pictures the photographer had taken of his first wife, Adrienne, and their children - Laura and Ethan. What struck me then and perhaps even more now is the way they combine Winogrand's distinctive off-kilter vision with the kind of snaps many parents take. Not all the pictures in the group were good, yet each of the ones I'm illustrating here seem to me remarkable. Loving but probing, gentle yet removed.

























Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Garry Winogrand - Part 1



One of the most interesting shows of the forthcoming season looks to be “Garry Winogrand – The Sixties” at the Fraenkel Gallery in San Francisco. The invitation, like all their invitations, is compelling and original, and beautifully done, so I have reproduced all four pages - above and below.





I also came across this uncredited biography of Winogrand on the Temple University website. I thought it was worth copying whole, but if you have to skim, don’t miss out on John Szarkowki’s final quote. As always, he said it better than anyone.

Garry Winogrand's too short career defined street photography for future generations of photographers. He made photos of New York City and it's inhabitants. He traveled the country is search of America. He captured the banalities, the excitement and the complex social realities of a modern city. Winogrand shot incessantly, at the time of his death he had over 2500 rolls of undeveloped film, over 6500 rolls of film that had not been contact printed and 300 contact sheets that showed no signs of being edited. This was a total of over 300,000 photographs that he had taken but not bothered to look at.


His subjects were drawn from life around him and frozen in time by his distinctive style of using a wide angle lens, a close approach to his subject and tilting the frame. He didn't like to use a long lens to isolate his subject against a background; rather he made the background part of the image to give the subject context. His photographs caught the critical moment when unrelated activities coincided against a background. Many of photographs imply, but don't show action. They exist before an event, anticipating the event about to occur.

Winogrand was born in 1928 in a predominantly working class Jewish neighborhood in the Bronx borough of New York City. Winogrand developed his habit of wandering city streets early on in his life because of his family’s crowded apartment. He would keep this habit all through his life.

He spent two years, 1946-47, as a US Army weather forecaster stationed in Georgia. He returned to New York City after his discharge and decided to become an artist. He enrolled in a painting course at Columbia University. His classmate George Zimbel introduced Winogrand to, as he put it, “the magic of photography.” Winogrand was hooked as he watched one of Zimbel’s prints magically appear in the developer tray. He immediately dropped the painting class to pursue photography. Winogrand was usually broke so he continued to “borrow” the darkroom at Columbia as long as he could. He went on to “borrow” paper and chemicals from his friends in order to keep working.

He received a scholarship to study with Alexey Brodovitch at the New School for Social Research. Brodovitch, an influential editor at Harper’s Bazaar, taught many of the great photographers to emerge from New York City in the 40’s and 50’s. Brodovitch enjoined his students to reject the old clichés of photography. He told them, if they recognized the picture they saw through the viewfinder, do not press the shutter. Winogrand learned this lesson well and based his whole life on searching for new ways to photograph his subjects.

Winogrand eventually got a job as a stringer for the Pix agency. He gained access to a darkroom and an office where he could talk with other photographers. One of the other photographers, Ed Feingersh introduced Winogrand to the agent Henrietta Brackman, probably because he was tired of Winogrand “borrowing” materials all the time. She got Winogrand commissions shooting various general interest stories for Colliers and Argosy. The work he did for the magazines was typically generic. Winogrand was later dismissive of his photojournalistic work because it was so generic and didn’t have the stamp of his individual style. Some of his work during this period did stand out including his photos of the beach at Coney Island and the 1955 feature on the ‘El Morocco’ nightclub.

Winogrand decided to take a trip across America in 1955. He was introduced to Walker Evan’s book, ‘American Photographs’ by his friend Dan Weiner. It had such a profound effect on Winogrand that his trip was far less photographically successful than Robert Frank’s trip the same year. According to the article by Peter Marshall, “he produced few pictures (because he was) – probably overawed by the work of Evans.” Frank’s’ trip would result, a few years later, in his book The Americans. This book would also be another strong influence on Winogrand.

The Cuban missile crisis in 1962 was an important turning point in Winogrand’s life. He was caught up, like many others at the time, in feelings of desperation that nuclear war could bring about the end of civilization. In typical fashion he took to the streets to walk off his worries. He came to the realization that, according to Szarkowski that “he was nothing … powerless, insignificant, helpless … and so was free to lead his own life.” This powerful liberation allowed him to escape from his political affiliations and the strict ethical structures of his Jewish family life. From then on he dropped all his political activities and began the process of divorcing his first wife. Marriage was never a success for Winogrand because he was too self-centered to make it work. After his divorce he single-mindedly devoted himself to pushing the boundaries of photography.

During the 60s magazine work dried up and he turned to advertising photography to support himself. His work in this field was competent but not outstanding because he refused to take the work seriously. He married a second time to a copywriter at one of the agencies he worked for but it was short-lived.

Winogrand had his first gallery show in New York in 1959. He took part in two prestigious shows in the 60s at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York. The first was Five Unrelated Photographers with Ken Heyman, George Krause, Jerome Lieblin and Minor White in 1963. In 1967 he participated in the New Documents show that featured him with Diane Arbus and Lee Friedlander. Winogrand didn’t make a big impression until the 1967 show curated by John Szarkowski, who later became an editor and reviewer of his work. The books The Animals (1969) and Public Relations (1977) would later confirm his as a master photographer.

The public recognition gained from the shows lead to invitations to lecture and lead workshops along with increased print sales. He received a second Guggenheim grant to take pictures showing events arranged for the media. This work was later shown and published as Public Relations. This book was considered his most polished work because of the editing work of photographer Tod Papageorge.

In 1972 he married for a third time and took his first permanent teaching post the following year at the University of Texas at Austin. He stayed in Texas for five years but produced very little work because of teaching and preparing his two books Women are Beautiful and Public Relations. He was commissioned to photograph the Fort Worth Dallas Fat Stock Show and later produced the book Stock Photographs from those pictures. Almost all of his work from this period was a series of airport photographs made while traveling.

Winogrand had a very bad year in 1975, both personally and professionally. His book, Women are Beautiful, was badly received by critics and the public. John Szarkowski discusses the pain of public indifference in his book Winogrand, Figments of the Real World: "A collection of Winogrand's pictures of women in public places, mostly made during the decade of he sixties, was published in 1975 as ‘Women Are Beautiful.’ Winogrand's own appreciation of women was enthusiastic and undemanding, and he naively assumed that the rest of the world, at least the rest of the male world, would be eager to buy a book of photographs of anonymous, fully-dressed women walking down the street. His expectations of commercial success were disappointed."

When he quit smoking because of a thyroid condition that required urgent surgery he gained 50 pounds. He was out of the hospital only a few months when he was injured in an accident at a football game. He ended up under a pile of players on the sideline with a broken leg and a smashed knee. His recuperation was slow and it was some months before he was back to work.

In 1978 he moved to California when he received his third Guggenheim grant to photograph that state. He continued his California project although it was interrupted by various trips abroad but he seemed to lose interest in seeing the results of his work. In February of 1984 Winogrand rushed to see a doctor because of abdominal pain. He died six weeks later from inoperable gall bladder cancer.

According to John Szarkowski, Director of the Department of Photography at the Museum of Modern Art since 1962 and a longtime friend and supporter of Winogrand, "The technical decline of the last work was perhaps accelerated by Winogrand's acquisition, in 1982, of a motor-driven film advance for his Leicas, which enabled him to make more exposures with less thought. On the same day he acquired an eight-by-ten-inch view camera, an instrument that proposes a diametrically different approach to photography. The new camera was perhaps an acknowledgment that his old line of thought was nearing the breaking point. He did not use the eight-by-ten, but he talked about using it..."

Szarkowski's final words won't be applied to many, however.

"When we consider the heedless daring of his successes and his failures we become impatient with tidy answers to easy questions, and with the neat competence of much of what now passes for ambitious photography. Winogrand has given us a body of work that provides a new clue to what photography might become, a body of work that remains dense, troubling, unfinished, and profoundly challenging. The significance of that work will be thought by some to reside in matters of style or technique or philosophical posture. There is no original harm in this misunderstanding, and useful work may come of it, but it will have little to do with the work of Garry Winogrand, whose ambition was not to make good pictures, but through photography to know life."

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

That's LIFE!



Just announced today, the news that Time Inc. and Getty Images will jointly launch LIFE.com in early 2009.

The official announcement is couched in the corporate “we don’t quite know what we’re doing, but let’s hope it drives up our stock price” language, but the vision seems to be of millions of web users happily playing the “popular” LIFE picture puzzle, purchasing albums of their favorite photographs, and decorating their homes with digital reprints of the atom bomb and Marilyn Monroe. (Do I see a bombshell theme here?) All this, I presume, to be surrounded by ads.

Here’s the text of the official release:

New York, NY, September 23, 2008 – Time Inc. and Getty Images will jointly launch LIFE.com, the companies announced today at the Interactive Advertising Bureau’s MIXX Conference in New York City. LIFE.com will be jointly owned and operated by Time Inc. and Getty Images, and will provide access to the most comprehensive iconic and professional photography collections available anywhere online. Andy Blau, president of LIFE and SVP of Time Inc. Interactive, and Catherine Gluckstein, vice president of iStockphoto and Consumer Markets at Getty Images, will serve as CEO and CFO, respectively.



“LIFE.com brings together the two most-recognized brands in photography, making the defining images of our times even more accessible to people everywhere,” said Jonathan Klein, co-founder and CEO of Getty Images. “We are thrilled to partner with Time Inc. on the launch of this exciting new venture.”

LIFE.com will offer access to thousands of new photographs from Getty Images’ award-winning photographers, including today’s news, entertainment, sports, celebrities, travel, animals and many others.

Consumers will also have access to millions of images from LIFE magazine, many of which have never been seen by the public. The collection contains the historic photos that LIFE published through the decades, in addition to many never-before-seen pictures of Hollywood stars, sports heroes, important people and events from the ‘30’s though the ‘90’s. Getty Images will be providing the majority of images at launch from its comprehensive archival and current collections. More than 3,000 new images will be uploaded daily from Getty Images.



“Image search is the fastest-growing type of online search, and LIFE.com will satisfy the public’s desire for quality and relevant imagery through a visually pleasing and easy-to-browse website,” says Blau. “Only three percent of the LIFE archive has been seen by the public,” says LIFE.com editor Bill Shapiro. “This site will put everything on display. You’ll be able to look at the biggest events of yesterday and the stories making news today with just a couple of clicks.

”

The new site, which was designed with Getty Images’ industry-leading search technology, will be easy-to-use and navigate. When the site launches in early 2009, consumers will be able to interact intimately with imagery, including printing select photos, sharing photos with friends and family, playing the popular LIFE Picture Puzzle, creating collections of photos around special interests and purchasing photo albums of user-made collections. Through the site, consumers can view the photos the world is talking about by searching for recently added photos or viewing photos by topic. Searching for and viewing images on the site will be absolutely free.




Given the literally hundreds of millions of dollars the two companies respectively lost on art.com and the recent re-launch of LIFE, this can only be seen as the triumph of hope over experience.

Summer's End


Stefano & Janet

With summer almost over, as is our tradition a small group of friends gathered on the beach in Bellport, Long Island, on Sunday to celebrate with a sunset potluck dinner.

This year, with the experience of having worked closely with The Sartorialist under my belt (as well as my sandproof and waterproof Pentax Optio W60) I paid homage to Sart with a series of full length shots. The results were so good, I thought I would share my foolproof summer portrait tips:

1. Find a beach.

2. Wait until the sun is about 10 minutes from setting.

3. Position the sun over one shoulder.

4. Stand around 15 feet away from your subject.

5. Zoom the lens so that it's the equivalent of somewhere around an 80 - 100 millimeter lens.

6. Crouch down so that the camera is at about the chest level of your subjects.

7. Compose the shot so that there's a little space below the subjects feet and about double that space above the head.

8. Shoot fast.


Phil & family


Zack


Katia & Howard


Josie & Teddy


Steve, Chapel, Suzanne, & Sophie


Friday, August 29, 2008

Weekend Video - Lucky




It's taken a while for me to find a favorite summer song this summer, but it finally arrived in the form of "Lucky" by Jason Mraz and Colbie Caillat. I was just introduced to Jason Mraz's music (by my daughter, Josie) and it's fun, melodic, and relaxing, but it's the catchy tune and harmonies and the richness of Colbie Caillat's voice in particular that make this rather sweet song about your true love being your best friend (or vice versa) such a winner.

Apologies for the rather pedestrian video up top, but for some reason the official video of the song has not made it to YouTube. Needless to say, with such a wonderfully romantic theme there are plenty of tribute versions where you can just feel the pleasure of expression, such as with the duo of AJ Rafael & Cathy Nguyen, seen here performing in a bathroom!




Bigboymigoy and proud2bmorena did an equally good job:




As did Jessica Roscoe and Brent Rice:




And Llex and Andrea had particularly promising visuals for a summer video, but perhaps needed just a little more practice:




As always, I'd love to hear your vote for best tribute. And have a Happy Labor Day Weekend!

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Peace 4 Sale!



I was going to comment yesterday on how the peace symbol had become as much a pop-cultural and fashion accessory as anything meaningful but decided to resist the cynical thought. That was until I went into Blockbuster minutes after writing yesterday's post and saw the above display - a day after noticing the peace symbol hoodies at Target! Sadly for Gerald Holtom the peace symbol was never copyrighted.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Sign of the Times


British anti-nuclear protesters in 1958. Uncredited photo from Corbis


Ironically, one of the most notable anniversaries of the year seems to be slipping by almost unnoticed. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the peace symbol. The iconic sign was developed in 1958 by Gerald Holtom, a professional designer, artist, and conscientious objector in Great Britain.

 It was originally designed for Britain’s Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament. (In fact, the symbol is a combination of the semaphore signals for the letters "N" and "D" - standing for Nuclear Disarmament.) However, it quickly spread worldwide, and has since become universally known to represent peace rather than simply nuclear disarmament. After 50 years, though, the sign is as much a symbol of hope as any kind of realistic eventuality. Still, it's the hope that keeps us going.

I’ve been looking for great or iconic pictures featuring the peace sign and have so far come up pretty much empty handed. So any suggestions are welcome.


A skywritten peace sign above folk singer Arlo Guthrie during a 1969 show at Tufts University in Medford, Massachusetts. Uncredited photo from Corbis

Friday, August 22, 2008

Weekend Video - Tom Waits




At something of a loss as to what to post this weekend I went to the "recommended for you" section of my YouTube page where I discovered this gem of a 1979 rotoscope animated film featuring Tom Waits (and Donna Gordon) and directed by John Lamb. (Rotoscope is the process that takes live film and traces in back frame by frame into animation.)

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Olympic Update



I've been scouting around for what I consider original and artful (as opposed to arty) Olympic photographs and here's my selection to date. Above - Dan Chung and an effective use of tilt shift photography to record Usain Bolt's victory celebration after breaking the 100 meter world record to win gold.


John Giles caught this unusual landscape of two British boxers training on a beach outside of Beijing.


Another photograph by Dan Chung as Michael Phelps makes his way to Mama after winning his 8th gold medal.


Vincent Laforet shooting for Newsweek caught this amazing Edgerton like moment in women's Judo as Ange Mercie Jean Baptiste's blood hit the mat.


Adrian Dennis shoots as Italy's Giovanna Trillini hits Korea's Nam Hyunhee during the Women's individual Foil semi-final.


Perhaps the most unusual image so far. Andrea Leighton's overhead shot of weightlifter Arsen Kasabiev pinned under 222kg. (He had to wait for helpers to lift off the weight.)


Paraguayan javelin thrower Leryn Franco out of uniform....


.... and in uniform. Sadly she failed to qualify for the finals, but not before becoming one of the internet's newest celebrities.

Monday, August 18, 2008

Found!



Like many of my fellow bloggers, it seems, I’m on vacation for the next two weeks, but I will try to keep posting and amuse you with various tales, recollections, observations, etc.. (I’ve just noticed, for example, that Microsoft Word does not recognize the words “blog” or “blogger” and urges you to check your spelling!)

My big summer project at the gallery has been taking every book down from our library in order to re-organize the shelves – no small feat given the 100 + linear feet of books I have. But it’s a job I don’t mind doing because no-one ever looks at all their books and so it was like visiting old friends.

There was also the pleasure and surprise of uncovering forgotten ephemera picked up over the years and tucked in-between the various books. Here are three examples and the stories behind them. The first (above) the cover of Peter Beard’s book “Zara’s Tales”. I got it at a book signing at my daughter’s school – an annual event where any parent who has published a book that year is seated at a table and decorously signs their new tome to another parent nice enough to come to yet another fund-raising event. About a dozen authors were each seated at their own tables and you would move through the various novels, cookbooks, history books etc., until you found a book or books you wanted.

I was delighted to see Peter Beard, whose work I’ve always admired, but let’s face it - the guy is out there! (This is a man who spends half the year in Africa, sups with the Masai, and has been mauled by more species than you’ve had hot dinners.) Anyway I stopped to say “hi” and buy his book and after a brief chat Peter pulls out a large ink pad, dips half his hand it, impresses his fingers across the top of the cover, and proceeds to embellish the remaining white space with little flies and writing until he has not just signed the book, but created a veritable work of art and performance piece!



The next thing I found was the original issue of The Face magazine from July 1990, the one that featured a then totally unknown Kate Moss in Corinne Day’s “Indian Summer” story. So we’re talking 18 years ago! I think this issue is probably worth hundreds if not thousands by now. I’ve always had a thing for Kate so this was a great re-find. I also had the chance to work with her on an exhibition I did a dozen years ago in conjunction with the release of her book “Kate” and she’s just a delight. A quick story. At the time my wife had literally just given birth to our second child, Josie, and when Kate met my wife, Lucy, she looked her up and down and said approvingly “You can’t have had a baby – you’re too skinny.” So from then on Lucy had the distinction of being called “too skinny” by Kate Moss.



Lastly, I found the proof of an invitation for an event I did combining Don James’s California surfing pictures from the 1930s with the then current Roxy Quiksilver campaign. (The photo at the bottom, by Jeff Hornbaker, has always been one of my favorites. These are champion surfers and I just love their skill, nonchalance, and style.) Anyway, the design for the invitation was by my good friend Tom Adler, who I’ve blogged about before, but he is basically responsible for the whole revival of interest in surfing visuals; he creates, designs, and publishes the most amazing books and is better at putting pictures together than anyone I know. But this piece of graphic design, so seemingly simple but in reality so skillful, is one of my favorite examples of great design. At the time, Roxy made a handful of T shirts just for the show and modeling this rare collectors’ item is none other than Josie Danziger, who turns 13 on Friday.



Friday, August 15, 2008

Weekend Video - "Willin' "




With the new film “Pineapple Express” set to be the talking point of the weekend and the term “stoner” movie entering the critical vocabulary, here’s a smokin’ tune from the 70s.

Written in 1970, "Willin'" was a signature song for Little Feat and their lead singer and co-founder Lowell George. George died in 1979, but the song quickly became a favorite among America’s truck drivers, many of who continue to regard it as the unofficial anthem of their profession.

In George's lifetime, "Willin'" was recorded in three different versions. On the band’s debut album, Little Feat (1971), with only George’s raspy voice and guitar and the sparse accompaniment of Ry Cooder’s steel guitar. On Sailin’ Shoes (1972), where the song was done by the whole band with the chorus harmonized by four voices. And finally on the live double album, Waiting for Columbus (1978), where, "Willin’" segues straight into "Don’t Bogart That Joint" (which George helped compose when he was briefly a member of the band Fraternity of Man).

While Little Feat never made it to the peak, and in fact never even had a single on the charts, Britain’s Melody Maker magazine proclaimed in 1977, "Little Feat is the best U.S. band of the decade." Their 1976/77 tour became a minor legend and was captured on the live double album, Waiting for Columbus, now a cult classic and considered by many to be the greatest live record in the history of rock music.


Willin’ by Lowell George

I was warped by the rain
Driven by the snow
I'm drunk and dirty, don't you know
But I'm still, oh I'm still,... willin'

Out on a road, late last night
I saw my pretty Alice, in every headlight
Alice... Dallas Alice

Chorus:

And I've been from Tuscon to Tucumcari
Tehachapi to Tonapah
I've driven every kind of rig that's ever been made
I've driven down the backroads so I wouldn't get weighed
And if you give me weed, whites, and wine
And show me a sign, I'll be willin' to be movin'

Now I smuggled some smoke, some folks from Mexico
Baked by the sun, every time I go to Mexico, and I'm still

And I've been kicked by the wind
Robbed by the sleet
Had my head stoved in but I'm still on my feet
And I'm willin'... oh I'm willin'

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Breakfast of Champions (+ lunch & dinner)


Photo by David J. Phillips


There’s no question at this point in the Olympics that Michael Phelps is the big story and the great visual moment has to be his primal scream as Jason Lezak unbelievably caught the Frenchman Alain Bernard in the home stretch of the 4 x 100 relay to win the gold for America.

Yet perhaps equally amazing along with what is being called the greatest race ever is the daily caloric intake Phelps revealed to NBC.
In a recent interview, Phelps listed his average daily meals:

Breakfast:
3 fried-egg sandwiches topped with cheese and mayonnaise
1 five-egg omelet
1 bowl of grits
3 slices of french toast
3 chocolate-chip pancakes

Lunch:
1 pound of pasta
2 large ham-and-cheese sandwiches covered with mayo
1,000 calories worth of energy drinks

Dinner:
Another pound of pasta
1 whole pizza
Another 1,000 calories worth of energy drinks

So, in the course of an average day, Michael Phelps consumes over 12,000 calories. (The average male should be eating around 2,000 calories a day.)

A few more screams:


Photo by Itsuo Inouye


Phelps and Garrett Weber-Gale. Photo by Itsuo Inouye


Photo by Thomas Klenzie


And one more nice picture:


Photo by David Gray

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Wouldn't You Just Know It...



So no sooner do I post about Bill Cunningham never exhibiting his work than The New York Times hustles up a show just to prove me wrong. This press release came out today:

NEW YORK, Aug 13, 2008 (BUSINESS WIRE) -- The New York Times and Bergdorf Goodman announced today that they will kick off New York Fashion Week in September with special window displays and an in-store exhibit of Bill Cunningham's photography from his long-running "On the Street" and "Evening Hours" columns. Both columns appear weekly in the Sunday Styles section of The Times and online at NYTimes.com. The windows will be on view from Sept. 5 - 16, along with an exhibition on the third floor at Bergdorf Goodman, which is located in New York at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.

Mr. Cunningham is a familiar face on this very corner, where he can often be spotted snapping away at the city's most fashionable citizens, capturing within the keen eye of his camera's lens many of the glamorous personalities and colorful characters that populate his New York Times columns. The Bergdorf Goodman windows and exhibit will offer a unique retrospective of Mr. Cunningham's work. The images - candid photographs of everyday New Yorkers taken on the street as they sport their fashion know-how, and of equally stylish guests at glittering evening events - have never before been collected and shown in this way.

In addition, Mr. Cunningham will be honored at a private V.I.P. event at Bergdorf Goodman co-hosted by The Times, Bergdorf Goodman and - in tribute to Mr. Cunningham's preferred, low-emission mode of transportation around the city, his bicycle - the New York City Department of Transportation.

"New Yorkers have their own distinct take on fashion, and no one chronicles that style better than Bill Cunningham," said Jim Gold, president and CEO, Bergdorf Goodman. "We're delighted that our Fashion Week windows will pay tribute to Bill and the countless stylish moments his images have captured over the years."

"There is no better way for The Times and Bergdorf Goodman to celebrate style in New York City than by honoring Bill Cunningham's legendary work and great contributions during Fashion Week," said Denise Warren, senior vice president, chief advertising officer, The New York Times Media Group. "Bill's Sunday Styles columns excite and influence tastemakers around the world and exemplify how fashion is translated from the runway to the street."

Mr. Cunningham has been a photographer for The Times since December 1978. He also narrates a slide show of "On the Street" posted each week on NYTimes.com, with additional comments and background on his photographs.

Fashion Notes from All Over



While we're in fashion photo mode, a novel gimmick (above). In their September issue, rather than using photoshop to slim down the subject, Harper's Bazaar and photographer Kurt Iswarienko used it (along with some padding) to take uber-stylist Rachel Zoe from a size 0 to a size 8 and an interesting discussion on fashion and body image.



Then not to fixate on GAP, but I forgot to credit photographer Mikael Janssen for his pictures in the current campaign. And this new image from the Fall ad campaign (of model Karlie Kloss) is about as chic as I've seen.



This photograph of a gaggle of French VOGUE assistants is burning up the internet with bloggers choosing, Sex and the City style, which one they would be. Not much choice for men, though.



Lastly, the latest case of plagiarism/homage. On the left, the current cover of W Magazine. Photo of Kate Hudson by Mert and Marcus. On the right, Patrick Demarchelier for Harper's Bazaar, September 1994.

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

The Invisible Man


Bill Cunningham by The Sartorialist. February 2007.


Before the explosion of style photography on the web, before US and People Magazine’s red carpet shots, there was Bill Cunningham.

The original street fashion photographer, Cunningham has for the last few decades recorded the changing style of the world’s fashionable people for the New York Times. But what is truly unique, if not bizarre about Cunningham is his intentional artlessness and his obsessive evasion of the limelight. It’s an odd métier for someone as private as Cunningham to have chosen but in a way it all fits. By refusing to compose his shots, or be interviewed, or exhibit his work, or do anything other than go out and shoot – he is able to possess the rarest and most precious garment of all – the cloak of invisibility.

So little is known about Cunningham – he doesn’t even have a Wikipedia entry – but here are the few known facts:

Cunningham was born outside of Boston to a Catholic family about 70 years ago. He photographed his first fashion show in 1947, worked as a stock boy in a Boston department store and later at Bonwit's, served in the Army, after which he began making hats and decorative items of feathers.

For a time in the early '60s, Cunningham ran a small hat shop on Job's Lane in Southampton, Long Island, in the window of which he placed a single straw sun hat the size of a beach umbrella.

By 1963, Cunningham had abandoned the hat business and was hired as a reporter for Women's Wear Daily. He was fired after nine months. He freelanced as a fashion correspondent for the Chicago Tribune, where the perks included annual trips to cover European couture. From there he went on to other freelance jobs including a long stint with the pre-Conde Nast Details, a pioneer in its coverage of downtown fashion in the '80s.

There are two versions of how Cunningham first came to pick up a camera. In one, British photographer Harold Chapman, working for the New York Times in Paris, suggested to him that it would be easier to take pictures of fashion than to make his usual elaborate notes. In another, the fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez gave Cunningham the first camera he had owned since a boyhood Brownie.

He is thought to have bought no new clothes in 30 years and is rumored to keep what few garments he owns on the hooks of the numerous file cabinets that line his living space - a studio apartment in Carnegie Hall that has been described as one huge filing cabinet.

When Cunningham covers the European fashion shows, he stays in the most modest lodgings in Les Halles where no one visits him, where the phone is in the lobby, and the bathroom is shared. He has the manager remove the bed from the room so he can sleep in a corner on the floor.

In addition to his regular postings in the New York Times, Bill Cunnningham is now doing quite charming audio-visual slide shows for the paper’s website. Selections from the current story – about how the city’s women magically and simultaneously started wearing summer black – appear below.